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(120 km from
Beirut) - Roman Temples
There are at least three temples around Sfireh not far from Sir
El Donnieh in North Lebanon; two of them are visible on high hills at the far side of the village. The third, in
Sfireh itself, is somewhat harder to find. The Romans in Lebanon often built temples on the highest and most magnificent sites possible. Not surprisingly, in later centuries these strategically located temples were sometimes reused by local chieftains as defensive castles. The main temple of
Sfireh, built in the 2nd century AD, is a good example of this. Known in the area as
"Qalaat al-Hosn" or "fortress
castle," it overlooks the entire region from a height of 1,250 meters.
This is one of the best preserved temples in Lebanon; even though the roof is gone its waits still stand at almost their full height. Originally it was probably surrounded by great columns like the Bacchus temple in
Baalbeck, although no trace remains of such a colonnade. Look for carvings on the front of the temple and for the square holes in the floor that were used for door supports. There is a Greek language inscription on the outside
wall. From here a steep path winds left up the hill to another more ruined temple. You'll find a fallen altar with a carved bull's head inside a wreath, a design repeated on the three sides that are visible. Also notice the fine stone work of the standing wall. The view from this hill is a good one but if you climb even higher there is a panorama looking towards
Sir
El Donnieh, Qornet es-Sawda, Ehden and the Akkar. From
Sir El Donnieh you can even walk to Qornet
es-Sawda, the highest peak in Lebanon at 3,088 meters. But it's best to plan ahead because the walk will take at least six hours.
Back in
Sfireh look around the southwest part of the village for the remains of yet another temple. This one is hidden away among modern-day buildings, but if you want to investigate, ask for
"Beit al-Kebir" (big house). Villagers will help you locate it. To see the actual temple, you have to get behind the modern house, whose terrace is built on top of the Roman wall.
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